Beyond Cinque Terre: The Italian Riviera That’s Waiting to be Explored

My friend, Laura Giannatempo, is always traveling to the dreamiest places in Italy (and, in fact, has just started her own travel company, ViaVai Travel) so I asked if she would share one of her favorites with us—some place we might not have heard about… 

I was riding the train counting the minutes until the next stop so I could get a little relief, since a small army of people was pressing against me on all sides, sticky arms against sticky arms, heavy beads of sweat running down the sides of my temples. No, I wasn’t riding the New York City subway in a car with no air conditioning. I was on the local train that connects Monterosso to Vernazza—two of the Cinque Terre—some time in August of last year. And the people on my train weren’t commuters, they were tourists.

Growing up, I spent most summers in Liguria, in a town not too far from the Cinque Terre. For me—a girl from foggy-in-winter, hazy-in-summer Turin—Liguria has always been a strip of eternal sunshine where temperatures never fall below floral-dress-fluttering-in-the-breeze level, where an endless stretch of blue sea flickers in sunlight, and where food and wine have a special sensuous quality—especially when your meals are relished in a front-row seat to the Mediterranean.

My summers were spent in the small coastal town of Bonassola, just two towns removed from Monterosso. But while Monterosso and the other Cinque Terre villages are quite literally invaded by tourists, especially in the summer, Bonassola has managed to retain a local kind of charm—and with that, a slow pace reminiscent of another era. Even in the dog days of summer, Bonassola clings anachronistically to a comfortable provincialism, a decidedly small-town vibe varnished with only the thinnest layer of city-folk chic, thanks to visitors from Genoa, Milan and Turin.

This is the Italian Riviera I want you to know; the one that rarely makes it on Instagram. With over-tourism now plaguing the Cinque Terre (as I clearly witnessed on my train ride last year), I think it’s important for all of us to be more responsible travelers and diversify our destinations. I also think it’s more fun and interesting to explore paths less trodden. That’s when you really get a feel for a place, its people, its food. That’s when the experience is more authentic and feels genuine. And that’s what I strive to do at ViaVai Travel.

So if you’re thinking of traveling to the Cinque Terre, consider looking beyond and adding some lesser-known but equally charming places to your Ligurian itinerary. Here are a few of my favorites…

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Out of Office: Hawaii!

We have arrived on Kauai, where we are spending the first half of a week’s vacation on the North Shore! I’ve posted a few photos on Instagram with the hashtag #hawaiiansun19. Soon we will be meeting up with family on Oahu. So I’m taking the week off and will see you back here next week. I hope you’ll check back then!

P.S. If you are interested in travelogues for Kauai or other Hawaiian islands, I have a few. Here are some for Oahu and there are two from Maui. Also, we are meeting our family at the Aulani, and there are two earlier posts about staying at the Disney resort on Oahu.

Travelogue: Barcelona, Spain

I’d often wondered what it might be like to join a group travel experience, but I’m not sure I would have taken the leap had it not been for a nudge I got a few months ago from my friend, Jordan. She had learned that a couple of the ladies from the Ban.do team were partnering with Acanela tours and leading a small group trip in Barcelona and Cadaques for a week. She asked if I’d like to sign-up, too. The longest I’d ever been away from my kids was about three nights, so I was a little hesitant on that account, but with a village of support we figured I could make it work. And I’m so glad I did!

I’d be flying to Barcelona and meeting with about 14 others there—none known to me except for Jordan—and we’d be focusing on art and inspiration for the week.

My memories of the week have grown a bit foggier as this was a few months ago now, and even the constructive criticisms I had at the time about the style of travel have dissipated a bit as I look back on the trip with great fondness. I do wish I’d written about it when it was fresher in my mind, but I also have to confess that I did absolutely no research or planning for this trip whatsoever. I bought a small city guide at the eleventh hour and read it on the plane, but otherwise assumed I would just follow the pack, so to speak. I was looking forward to spending the week with my friend. For the most part it turned out to be a nice relief from my usual role as trip-planner. So I worry I have less than usual to share in the way of advice for those planning their own trip there.

Still, here are some other impressions and highlights from those first four days, in Barcelona, along with some of my favorite addresses…

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