One morning, we started out early to see the eleventh-century carved site of Gunung Kawi in Tampaksiring. Though it is just 11km outside of Ubud, we were happy to find that we arrived first that day, as I hear it can get crowded as time passes.
The village of Tampaksiring was virtually silent as we entered—roosters’ crows were of course a constant soundtrack as they are throughout the island. A few men were gathered, working to make coconut shavings, and the street was shrouded in a light fog.
We were fortunate to witness a cremation ceremony while we were in Ubud. Rather, I should say “part of a cremation” as the ceremony itself is spread over a period of time. Balinese believe that the body is returned to the five elements after death, merely a carrier for the soul. Cremation ideally would happen immediately, but it’s too costly for most families to hold the elaborate event on their own, so cremations are joined to share expenses.
The body is purified and buried until cremation can take place, often for years, and then brought home to be prepared for the ceremony. We saw the remains being brought to the cremation site in a loud procession, wherein they (now placed within a sparkling tower) were spun around to confuse the soul. Much attention was given to the sarcophagi (large bulls and other animals) by members of the family and community, before it is closed and set ablaze.
One of my favorite things to do in any new city is to visit a local market. From the greenmarkets of Manhattan to the bazaars of Bombay, they often give you such a colorful perspective of local culture.
Much of what was for sale at any of the markets we visited was material useful for making offerings, a small canang filled with flower petals and incense and usually some sort of nourishment, like rice. It was interesting to see the motorbikes line the entrances early in the morning, as local workers would pick up the materials (and sometimes premade packages) before heading off to work.
In fact, one of our guidebooks noted that the average household spends at least half its income on offerings. At the same time, much of what is offered is often later consumed in the household’s meals. Offerings may be to ask for blessings, to give thanks, or to ward off demons, and they can only be used once. Keep Reading >
